How to sum up my trip to Cambodia... Hmm... three expressions come to mind:
“Tuk-tuk! Tuk-tuk! Tuk-tuk!”
“My friend, how much you pay?”
“Special price, special price for you my friend. It’s good for you!”
I can still hear the voices of tuk-tuk drivers chasing us off the buses, outside our hotels, down the streets, outside of Angkor Wat, on our way to the beach... I think we could have tuk-tuked across the entire country if we agreed to all the special prices.
It was interesting to observe the differences between Thailand and Cambodia, though they are similar in many ways. Cambodia seemed a lot less developed and a lot more dependent on the tourist industry, but overall the people were just as friendly and excited, if not even more so, to share their culture and history.
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^ tuk-tuk ^ |
My trip to Cambodia picked up only a few hours after Koh Phangan left off. I arrived back in Chiang Mai Sunday morning just in time to take three midterms the next day, then returned to Arcade Bus Station with my re-packed backpack by Monday night. I wonder if the woman at the “Bangkok” window knows my name by now...
Once back in the capital, we bused across the border and into Siem Reap where we rewarded our 24 hours of pins-and-needled feet, over-cramped butts, and mind-numbing boredom with a few $0.50 beers and lunch at Temple Restaurant. For my fellow travelers reading this, “We’re in college!” - speaker anonymous.
The next day we checked one of the Seven Wonders of the World off our bucket lists as we explored the ancient Hindu ruins of Angkor Wat. The temples were like none other that I’ve seen, with indomitable roots of fig trees ripping through the stone structures and hopeless attempts of reconstruction to hold the architecture together. I wonder what the temples will look like 10, 20, 30 years from now.
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Angkor Wat |
Our next stop after Siem Reap was Sihanoukville, a small province on the coast of Cambodia. We stayed in a little bungalow called “Wish You Were Here,” and I am almost certain that this is the most laid-back place on the face of the earth. Swinging wicker chairs, comfy egg-seats, a chalkboard-painted wall scribbled with menu items, and groups of backpackers sharing untroubled conversation over games of cards. Even the owner went about his day as if there wasn’t a worry in the world. “I wish you didn’t have to pay,” he said, “then you could just get your food, drinks and keys yourselves... And I wouldn’t have to do a thing.” We laughed at the fact that he wasn’t joking.
Runner-up for most laid-back place in the world was Crusoe Island. Crusoe is a tiny, desolate island off the coast of Sihanoukville. It is inhabited only by a handful of Khmer families and one small “resort” that offers accommodation in tents and hammocks. Electricity is available between 6pm and 10pm (so I don’t recommend venturing to the squatter located in the middle of the woods at 9:55 like I did), and there is one hut for meals and drinks at designated hours. The only thing that bumped Crusoe down the list was our fear of rats, scorpions, and cockroaches crawling on our faces during the night - but besides that it was very relaxing.

Our weekend on the island consisted solely of swinging in hammocks, wading in the bathtub that is the Gulf of Thailand, and chatting around campfires at night. Because there was essentially nothing at all to do, I was forced to train my New-York-mind to slow to the pace of the swaying palm trees. It was surprisingly difficult, as I’m used to having a million thoughts in my head. But on Crusoe Island, it was just the ocean, the hammock, and my book - nothing else.
Emily put it well when she said that reading is like a vacation for your mind. I’ve been traveling so much lately that my thoughts constantly seem to be chasing after my footsteps, trying to keep up with all that I’m taking in. But it was a nice change of pace, having no reference of time besides the pendulum of myself and my hammock beneath a palm tree. With all else still, my thoughts resolved, and I allowed my mind to wander into the land of make-believe between the pages of my book.
The nights were a little different from the days, however. The first night we spent sleeping in a tent on the beach, and as the beach is only a few feet from a forest of rats and scorpions, it was a bit unsettling to wonder what creature was rustling the leaves just outside of our cloth-lining wall. So the second night we opted for a place less accessible to forest floor critters. We each pitched a hammock and zipped ourselves into bug-nets. Of course, our bug-nets were bombarded by cicadas all night, which was again, a bit unsettling. But we survived. And after three long, power-less, shower-less days, we were ready to return to civilization.
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Crusoe Island |
Wish You Were Here welcomed us back to Sihanoukville with cold showers and home-made veggie-burgers. Once our cameras and phones regained their battery life, we headed out for the next destination.
On our long bus ride to Cambodia’s capital city, Sage and I sat between a group of local Khmers who were on their way to a soccer tournament. One of them spoke pretty fluent English, so we took the opportunity to ask him questions about Cambodia. He was so happy that we were open to talk to him, to tell him about our country and ask him about his. I learned a lot from his disclosure, but one thing he said stuck with me the most: “Thank you for telling me about America. I like to learn from people. I feel like everywhere is my school, and everyone is my teacher.”
“Everywhere is my school. Everyone is my teacher.” How did he put such a truthful, meaningful statement into such simple words?
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Phnom Penh, Capital of Cambodia |
When we finally arrived in Phnom Penh, we hurried off our bus, jumped into a tuk-tuk!tuk-tuk!tuk-tuk! and decided on a cheap hostel in the city. On our list for Phnom Penh were the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, which brought mixed feelings to all of us. Nobody knew what to expect. We’d heard from friends who had already traveled to Cambodia that the stories of the recent Cambodian genocide were emotionally challenging, but we wanted to learn the history for ourselves.
Just 30 years ago, nearly 2,000,000 people were mass murdered under the Khmer Rouge takeover in Cambodia. Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge party leader, sought to nationalize the peasant farming society of Cambodia in accordance with the Chinese Communist agricultural model. Pol Pot and his followers imprisoned, tortured and killed all potential opposition, which included educated people, professionals, and monks, as well as young children who could not bear the punishing labor forced upon them in the fields. Within just 3 years of unfathomable executions, the Cambodian Genocide resulted in the gradual devastation of over 25% of the country’s population.
At the Genocide Museum, a Cambodian woman was selling bracelets outside of Security Prison 21, an old high school that was turned into a jailhouse during the Khmer Rouge regime. This woman was a survivor, separated from her mother, father, sisters and brothers during the genocide. She remains outside of SP21, in the presence of the bloodshed memories from her past, because she hopes that one day her family members will find their way back to her.
The stories of survivors made it all feel more real to me, though it was still so difficult to wrap my mind around. But that’s how it is with all major tragedies. You’re left wondering how they happened, why they happened. Sometimes there just isn’t an answer. Sometimes the only thing we can do is raise awareness for the future, and that is the intention of the Cambodian’s who share their tragic history in Phnom Penh.
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The Killing Fields, Phnom Penh |
By that point, it was evident that our trip Cambodia had taken us all on an emotional roller-coaster. We spent a few more nights relaxing and exploring the city, and soon it was time for Sophie, Alex and Emily to catch their flights back to Thailand and Sage and Anna to Malaysia.
So I spent my last night in Phnom Penh with a diverse group of backpackers I’d met along the way, sharing some drinks, playing pool, and apply the quote I’d learned from Khmer Bus Rider. Then I set out for the Thai border, and took a quick stop on Khaosan Road in Bangkok to do a little shopping. Here, is where I asked myself how I have been in Thailand for over three months, and have yet to spend more than a couple of hours in one of the world’s largest cities, not to mention film-set of America’s ever-so-entertaining The Hangover Part 2. So another item was added to the bucket-list, and I boarded my bus back to Chiang Mai excited to plan the next trip with my friends to BANGKOK.